Tuesday, December 25, 2007
Holidays
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
Kittens and Twins
Monday, November 26, 2007
Thanksgiving in Mali
Friday, October 26, 2007
babies and children and sheep, oh my!
I’m back in Sikasso after a little over a week in village. Salimata, Soumaila and I have continued to go to the other villages in the commune doing vaccinations and baby weighings. It’s been really nice to have some scheduled time where I feel like I’m actually doing something useful. Plus I’m getting to see some other villages and ride my bike a lot. While they had been weighing babies at the vaccination days before, according to the records they weren’t weighing nearly as many of the babies.
Now that I’ve been there a few times, I’m sure this was because it’s really hard to coordinate with all these women who are trying to get their baby vaccinated as quickly as possible, while filling out all the paperwork and actually administrating the vaccinations (not to mention crying squirming babies that don’t want to be shoved into the baby shorts and hung from the scale). I’ve definitely been useful as another set of hands.
I’m looking forward to expanding the activities that we do on these days even more. I was supposed to do my first “animation” (an informal education session) yesterday, but the vaccination day didn’t end up happening because somehow the women didn’t end up being informed that we were coming that day. Right now we’re not really doing nutritional counseling with the women after we weigh the babies. With our current system, I haven’t figured out yet how we can incorporate that smoothly, but I think it will come.
I’d heard a lot of stories about children that wouldn’t leave volunteers alone in their villages. For the first few weeks, I had no problems. Children didn’t even try to come to my concession. Then, about a week ago, some children started showing up to visit. It was a small group of girls, and they came, stayed for a while, and left, and it was no problem. However, this caused more children to come. A few days ago I started kicking them out after a few minutes. First of all, because they wouldn’t respect the fact that if I locked the door to my concession in the early afternoon, that meant I was resting before my language tutoring session and didn’t want company. One night they also came in the evening, when I was just reading and winding down before bed. Again, the door was locked, and despite the fact that I’d explained to them (that afternoon) that if the door was locked I didn’t want visitors, they wouldn’t go away.
I just need to be firmer about kicking them out. Even when it’s just a few kids and they’re not doing anything, I can’t comfortably go about my normal activities in my concession with them staring at me. They don’t come to talk or anything, just to watch me. I had an older girl come in the other day and tell me I should “shoo” the kids away, so I did. I was glad she’d told me that, because I had been worried that it was culturally inappropriate to send them away, but now I know it’s not.
I have, however, started to welcome sheep into my concession. The yard is supposed to be just sand, but lots of weeds grow in it. I sometimes will spend some time weeding, but it just grows to fast to keep up with. Sometimes sheep would wander in and I would chase them away, but then one day I thought – hey, maybe we can work together on this. Soon an entire herd of sheep was in my yard and doing a better job than I would have done spending an hour weeding while sweating profusely.
A few things I forgot to put on my previous list of stuff I would love to receive:
granola bars
CDs! Please please burn CDs and send them to me!
I just want to mention that now that Ramadan is over, I'm able to watch Au Coeur Du Péché again in my village. There is a car batter-powered black and white TV at my homologue's house. Au Coeur Du Péché is a Brazilian soap opera dubbed into French (and for the non-francophones, that translates to "at the heart of sin," so you can imagine what an awesome show it is). For the duration of Ramadan, they had moved it to 10 or 10:30 at night -- or so I heard, because that's way past my bedtime! Two nights this week it wasn't on because of soccer, and I was very bitter.Monday, October 15, 2007
Next
Friday was the holiday at the end of Ramadan, called Seli Fitini in Bambara ("little holiday" -- Seli Ba, or "big holiday," is 40 days after the end of Ramadan. In my village, they buy and prepare beef for Seli Fitini. Basically people dressed up in nice clothes and went to the mosque and pray, ate a lot of rice and meat, and went around greeting each other. Children get dressed up and go around to different houses and people give them coins. There seemed to be a huge number of children on bikes, which confused me, because there aren't usually that many bikes in the village.
When I arrived in Sikasso on Saturday morning, I discovered that things were not back to normal. The whole weekend was an extension of the celebration, and the market was much quieter than usual and lots of businesses were closed. I'm hoping that when I return to my village this afternoon, things will be back to normal.
If anyone wants to send me a package, I have a general list of things that I can always use here:
trail mix (fruit and nut kinds)
M and Ms
dried fruit (craisins, raisins, apple, mango)
peanut butter
sudokus or crosswords
dial soap
sponges (like for the kitchen, preferably with the scrubby thing on one side)
sauce mix packets (instant packets to make pasta sauce, taco seasoning, etc.)
spices (now I just need thyme and cumin)
Ok, sorry for the shortness of this post but I'm just not in the mood to write more right now.
Wednesday, October 3, 2007
First Week at Site
It's an 18k bike ride in. My language tutor, Lassina, had told me that it is 4k from my village to the "siraba" (big road, which is also unpaved) but I think it's further because just that took about 30 minutes. Once I was on the big road though, things went much faster and the total trip was about an hour and 10 minutes. Anyway, it was a fun ride. There are several villages along the way, and everyone was really friendly and greeted me. People were so shocked to see a white person -- at this point, everyone in my village knows a white person is living there. On the road, however, I saw people driving mopeds literally turn around to get a better look at me.
As for my site. I've been trying to get up at 6:30. If I sleep any later, I'm guaranteed to feel really lazy, because even at 6:30 everyone is up already. I've been heating my water for coffee (instant) on a charcoal stove because one of the components of my gas stove was in my bag that was lost. Anyway, it takes 10 to 20 minutes to light my charcoal stove (I've been getting better at it). At first I hated doing it but now it's a kind of enjoyable part of my morning ritual. I get together the rest of my breakfast while the water heats. Bread is available in my village, if I feel like venturing out of my concession that early in the morning, which sometimes I honestly don't. My host family has been giving me millet porridge most afternoons, so sometimes I'll eat that for breakfast. It's really grown on me -- with powdered milk, sugar and cinnamon, it's delicious!
Anyway, once I've eaten I go to the well next to my concession to draw water for my morning bucket bath. If I need drinking water as well, I'll make a second trip. It's lucky that the well is so close, because water is heavy! I have a really big bucket, and I don't even fill it because if I do I can't carry it. I need to master carrying stuff on my head.
By the time I've gotten dressed, it's after 8. I've been spending my mornings out and about. I usually stop by Salimata's house (my homologue), and then either go to the CSCOM if there is anyone there (which there hasn't been), or I sit with her family a bit. After she's done some of her morning work, we have been going on marathon greeting sessions. That means going to one section of the village, and going to each concession looking for the elderly people that haven't gone to the fields. We sit with them for a few minutes while Sali introduces me and tells them what I'm there for. We chat a little, then move on.
I usually come home before lunch, then eat lunch at Sali's. I'm looking forward to having my gas stove working so I can at least cook my own lunch, because during Ramadan that would really be better. I spend the hottest part of the day at home. I read or nap, and every other day I have my language lesson from 3 to 4.
I've been going running almost every afternoon once it cools down. I try to stop by my djatigi's house either going or coming, because the path I go running on goes right by there. Everyone thinks it's hilarious that I run. Yesterday I had a kid follow me for a few minutes, continually asking me where I was going. I kept saying "I'm just running", but I don't think he believed me. There is a Fula (an ethnic group, usually pastoralists) guy who I always run into herding his cows. He also didn't understand at first, but he's gotten used to me. Yesterday he offered me some milk. I was curious but didn't think it would be a good idea mid-run (also, unpasteurized dairy products can carry TB).
Once I get back from my run, I draw more water and bathe again, and read/relax, then go to Sali's at 7:30 for dinner. They have a black and white TV powered by a car battery. Unfortunately, TV has been sucking because of Ramadan. They've taken my beloved "Au Coeur Du Peche" (a brilliant Brazilian soap opera!) and moved from 7 to 10:30, which is way later than I'm ever up. Anyway, I hang out, eat dinner, and come home around 9 and go to bed.
To explain about my djatigi. So, that's kind of like a host family, except I don't live with them or eat with them... The host father, Zange Koné, is the former mayor of Kafouziela. He was the one who originally submitted a request for a PCV. Most PCVs do eat with their host family. However, Lassina really wanted me to eat with Sali at the fonctionnaire's concession. I think that he and my host father think that I can't handle real Malian food or something. Anyway, I try to go hang out with his family at least a little every day. Zange himself is really, really nice. He has three wives, one of whom I'm named for (I'm Bintu Koné now). They are Senufo.
The Senufo are an ethnic group that is very prevalent in Sikasso. I'm lucky because while the majority of my village is Senufo, the language is only spoken by elderly people. Everyone speaks Bambara. I say I'm lucky only because PC doesn't ever teach Senufo during stage, and I know other volunteers who are in villages that do speak it. It's a dilemma for them because it is an exceptionally difficult language to learn because it's tonal, and dialects vary a lot so it would only be useful in their own village. On the other hand, the situation in my village is sad but typical -- less and less people are speaking it, and linguists are trying to preserve the language.
Back to my host family. Yesterday I went to their house because they were making shea butter and I wanted to see what they did and help if I could. They had already done something the day before to turn the shea nuts into brown goo. The step that I was there for was mixing that goo with water until it began to turn white. We stuck our arms in big basins of it and turned it for a long time. It was really fun. Of course, the women I was with somehow managed to get only a small part of their arm covered in the shea stuff -- my arm was covered to my elbow, and they thought it was hilarious. Once the white part separates, they transferred that to another bucket and threw out the remaining brown water. Then they heat the white part for an hour, and it turns to oil.
After we worked on the shea butter, I sat with my host father and we ate together. I asked him some questions about his family, including how many children he had. He told me that in total he had 8 children living -- 8 had died. This is a typical response. I've asked women the same question, and they'll say something like "Five... but 3 died." It's pretty shocking.
Pictures!
Tuesday, September 25, 2007
Off to Site
We left Tubani So at 6 a.m. Sunday to take public transportation to our regional capitals. We met up with our regional coordinator yesterday morning, who took us to meet the governor and chief of police. The other major thing we need to be doing here is shopping for supplies for our houses. Volunteers that are replacing someone have a lot less to buy. Yesterday I tried to buy a bunch of kitchen stuff, but was unable to reach an agreement with the seller about a price, so I ended up walking out. Today I went back to the same place, and he was more reasonable. My other favorite purchases have been a mortar and pestle (which are heavy, by the way), and a canary -- a clay jar to store water in, that keeps it cool.
Last night we made Mexican food at the house of one of the volunteers who lives in the city. It was amazing. Also, one of the other volunteers, Kaleta, made a cake for the two of us that had birthdays this week. We spent a long time trying to pound sugar to made powdered sugar for the frosting. Conclusion: I don't know how they make powdered sugar, but it doesn't involve pounding it in a mortar and pestle. Luckily it was delicious anyway.
Not much more to report right now. From now on I'll only have internet access every 2 weeks or so, I think. I have cell phone service at site so you can call me, or try texting me. Also, I actually receive snail mail more quickly now that I can go pick it up at the post office myself.
Thursday, September 20, 2007
Tomorrow I'm a PCV!
Alright, I had a third picture on here but the internet hates me. Also, I tried to upload more photos, but my patience has run out. Here is my entry:
Homestay is over, and we’re back at Tubani So for the last time. The last few days have been spent in sessions going over last-minute administrative details, and packing. Friday is “Swearing-In,” the ceremony where we officially transition from Peace Corps Trainees (PCTs) to Peace Corps Volunteers (PCVs). Swearing-In is at the American Embassy, and afterward there is a brunch at the ambassador’s house. That night the current PCVs are hosting a party for us in Bamako, and most of us are staying in a hotel that night. We can spend all day Saturday in the city (and it’s Mali’s independence day – September 22).
I’m pretty nervous for Swearing In, because there is going to be a speech in each language, and I’m giving the Bambara speech. It’s not a long speech, but the event is going to be broadcast on Malian television! Our host families have been invited, but I don’t know if mine will be there, because they have to get to the embassy on their own.
On Sunday we leave for our regional capitals via public transportation. We’ve already sent the bulk of our luggage on Peace Corps vehicles. When we get to the regional capital, we will have some time to shop for the necessities for our houses. I’m going to have to buy pretty much everything since mine is a new site (I’m not replacing a volunteer) – that means furniture, a stove, dishes, cooking utensils, buckets, everything. Then a Peace Corps vehicle will take each of us to our sites with all our stuff.
And then I’ll be at my site! For the first three months, we’re not allowed to leave our regions. We are supposed to be focusing our efforts on improving our language and getting to know the community, rather than starting any real projects. For health, we are supposed to conduct a “baseline survey” and other needs assessment activities, and spend time hanging out at our CSCOM. I’ll also be going around meeting as many people as possible, and hopefully touching base with the already-existing community groups, like the Women’s Association.
In January we return to Tubani So for 2 weeks of in-service training (IST). This is supposed to be intensive technical training, preparing us to go out and actually do projects.
Today we had a session on snakes in Mali. They had this guy come and bring in a bunch of snakes that live here, and he told us which ones are poisonous, how to avoid getting bitten, and what to do if we are bitten. Then we got to play with the non-dangerous ones, especially the ball pythons, which roll into balls as a defense mechanism. They were cute. Apparently there has only been one incident of a PCV getting bitten in the last 10 or 15 years. Mostly it’s farmers, because they are walking through tall grasses or brush. They should really bring snakes into all the sessions because everybody was really into it.
Monday, September 17, 2007
As requested, pics that include me
Anyway, I'm going to take advantage of the internet connection to just post this without writing more.
Friday, September 7, 2007
Random thoughts
One of my first days in Mali, an American who had spent a lot of time in West Africa was telling us that one of her cultural limits is that she won’t suck juice out of a bag. I, on the other hand, feel the exact opposite – to me, sucking juice from a bag is one of the perks of life in Mali!
To explain: in markets here, many women sell juice in clear plastic bags – like sandwich bags, tied off at the end. They contain about 4-6 ounces of juice, and you bite off one corner and suck the juice out. Sometimes the juice is frozen, which is even better, because Malian juice is too sweet for most Americans’ taste buds, but when it’s frozen it’s like sorbet. Yogurt or porridge can be sold like this as well. There are a few common types of juice – dahblani, which is made from boiled hibiscus flowers with TONS of sugar and various other flavorings, jinbere, which is ginger juice (and a ton of sugar), and assorted juices, often bright orange, made from powdered mixes (and a ton of sugar).
There are a few health hazards associated with buying juice in this form. For one thing, you don’t know what water was used. Even though boiling is part of the process of making dahblani, some women make it by making a concentrated batch of the boiled flowers and adding cool water afterward. Besides the water, there’s other relevant conditions that there’s no way to know about (like hand washing). And of course, the outside of the bag can be dirty.
Every day, my host mother makes juice, freezes it (yes, we have a fridge, a huge luxury here), and sells it in the market in the morning to make a little extra income. It’s wonderful because I know that she uses robinet or tap water, which is treated, and I know that our courtyard is clean. This means I get a delicious supply of frozen juice that I know is relatively safe. Mmmmm. And back to my original point, I find drinking it from a bag to be vastly satisfying.
Right now I’m back at Tubani So, with only a few weeks left of training. There are four phases to training in Peace Corps Mali. Phase I was the first half of training, which was basically all language and cross-culture sessions. Phase II is now, which is some technical training and some “lang-tech” – i.e. learning vocabulary relevant to our jobs. Phase III is the first 3 months at site, when we are supposed to be integrating and doing needs assessment, and Phase IV is an IST, or in-service training, which will be two weeks of mostly technical stuff once we have an idea of what’s going on at our site.
Last week we conducted a baby weighing and a demonstration of how to make ameliorated porridge in our homestay village. Since our village has a well-organized CSCOM (centre de santé communautaire) that already has baby weighings twice a week, we just kind of helped out with theirs. They have a very efficient system. The babies that came to our CSCOM were mostly healthy weight, but there were a few that were slightly or seriously underweight.
But we did follow up with doing a little nutrition lesson about ameliorated porridge with the mothers, in Bambara. It is extremely scary to get up in front of a group and give a talk in a language that you can barely have a conversation in. But it turned out pretty well, because both the women and the staff were helpful, kind, and receptive. It was really good to get over doing that for the first time, since that’s a large part of what health volunteers do. You just have to realize that the worst that can happen is that they won’t understand you.
The purpose of baby weighings is to identify as early as possible which babies are underweight, because malnutrition is the underlying cause of most child deaths here. It can complicate basically any other disease. We are supposed to encourage women to exclusively breastfeed their babies until 6 months, then start introducing ameliorated porridge. Porridge is a common staple food here – it can be made from millet, rice, or corn. Many children who get enough calories do not get enough protein once they are weaned and no longer getting as much breast milk. This leads to the condition called kwashiorkor, which is when they have the swollen bellies and skinny arms, and sometimes pale, brittle hair. Ameliorated porridge is porridge that has peanut paste, peanut powder, bean powder, fish powder, or any other source of protein added to it. It’s easy to make and very cheap.
The kind we made had 5 different kinds of powder in it – millet, fonio (which is some kind of grain that I don’t really understand), rice, bean and peanut. It was actually pretty good. And it is really easy to make! You just mix the flours with a little water then add them to boiling water and keep cooking it for a while. Then you can add sugar and anything else you want. It tastes kind of like cream of wheat.
Which reminds me of a funny cultural thing about hot and cold. Malians are really into cooling things off. In the U.S., if you have a cup of coffee and it’s too hot, you wait until it cools a little and then drink it. Here, that is unacceptable. If my family gives me my cup of tea in the morning and they see that it’s too hot, they take it away and pour it back and forth between two cups until it is cooled off. When porridge has been cooked, the last step is to scoop it and pour it with a ladle until it is cool. And it’s not just my family – I’ve had lots of conversations with other trainees about this.
Another interesting discovery I’ve had from eating with my hands is that my hand is actually more sensitive to heat than my mouth. Sometimes I’ll scoop up a handful of rice and burn my hand, but if I can just get it to my mouth it’s ok. After a lifetime of eating with their hands and/or cooking over an open fire, most Malians’ hands are way less sensitive to heat, and my host family thinks it’s hilarious whenever I can’t start eating because the food is too hot.
Tuesday, August 28, 2007
to Sikasso and back
I just got back from “site visit,” which is when Peace Corps trainees (PCTs) visit the village/town/city we’ll be living in for the two years of our service. Last Monday my homologue, Salimata, came to Tubani So. A homologue, or counterpart, is our closest work contact. They are supposed to help us integrate into the community and provide support/assistance/guidance for projects that we do. On Monday we had some workshops to help orient the homologues to what we Peace Corps is all about and how to (hopefully) successfully work together.
The next day we left early in the morning with our homologues to travel to our region. My site is in Sikasso, the southernmost region of Mali, bordering with the Cote D'Ivoire, Burkina Faso, and Guinea. I was thrilled with my placement there, because Sikasso is renowned for having tons of produce, including avocadoes and mangoes. Supposedly during mango season there will be more mangoes than even I know what to do with. Sikasso city, the regional capital, is near the Burkina border. Two other PCTs and their homologues were on the same bus. Unfortunately we missed the early morning bus, so we had to wait at the bus station in Bamako for almost two hours.
The bus makes fairly frequent stops, to pay tolls in small villages on the paved road, and sometimes to let people go to the bathroom. It also makes longer stops at prayer times so that people can pray. I realized that this is the problem with traveling later in the day. Muslim prayer times are dawn, 2 p.m., 4 p.m., sunset, and 8 p.m. Once you hit the afternoon prayer times (which we did) the stops really slow you down. One time we stopped for a really long time in the middle of nowhere, and I’m not sure why. Buses also break down, but this didn’t happen, fortunately. When it stops in villages, people come up to the bus selling snacks such as hardboiled eggs, cakes, cold drinks, and roasted corn. Anyway, the trip down took about 8 hours.
My homologue and I were supposed to stay in a hotel in Sikasso city, but it turned out that she had family nearby, so she went and stayed with them and I stayed in the hotel. The hotel was in walking distance of a current volunteer’s house. I went to her house and we made dinner together, which was wonderful after a month and a half of not ever getting to cook for myself. The next day she took me to the bank where I was supposed to open an account, then on a tour of the city. It is the second largest city in Mali, after Bamako. Despite this, it is not at all cosmopolitan. There are only a few paved roads, and no tall buildings....and no ice cream! Or if there is ice cream, the volunteers in the area haven't found it, which would mean that they're missing their biggest potential market! There are however, stores that sell candy, a good assortment of cookies, Nutella, cereal, oatmeal, flour, etc. There are some patisseries, there is a hotel with a swimming pool, a bank, a hospital, bars and restaurants.
In the afternoon a Peace Corps vehicle took me and Salimata to my future village, Kafouziela. It is only 18 km outside of the city, but the road is unpaved and there is no public transportation to it except on Sundays. I will have a bike once I’m installed, however, so I’ll be able to bike back and forth easily.
My village is beautiful! It is on a small hill. There are tons of mango trees, and most of the buildings are made of mud brick with thatched roofs. It’s a village of about 2000 people. There are several wells, and one pump, but it doesn’t work right now. My house is the former mayor’s office, and it’s in its own concession (walled-in yard). It is made of cement with a corrugated tin roof, and has two rooms. It also has a large porch, which is wonderful because it means I can be outside even when it’s raining. There is a mango tree in my yard, and a BRAND NEW NYEGEN!!! If anyone missed this before, a nyegen is a pit that you go to the bathroom in. Starting off with a brand new one is sooooo nice because it doesn’t smell at all, and the concrete floor is freshly poured. Some have a separate bathing area. Mine doesn’t, but the whole thing is big enough that I can bathe at a comfortable distance from the hole. It doesn’t have a roof, but it has fairly high walls, which is also nice (some nyegens have walls that are only about 3 feet high, which can be embarrassing).
There is a well right next to my concession. I’m also right next to the market, which happens on Saturdays. I got to see it, and realized that I’d had unrealistic expectations. There were basically peanuts, “Malian eggplants” (not like eggplants, believe me), and hot peppers. Not a single fruit. To be fair, this is kind of an in-between time for fruit, but I think I’m going to have to do a lot of my marketing in Sikasso, which is no problem now that I’m prepared for that. While produce isn’t readily available in my village, bread, pasta and eggs are. Bread is kind of a luxury “en brousse” – because I’m so close to Sikasso, it is brought in from there.
I’ll be working at the CSCOM (“centre de santé communautaire” or community health center) in my village. It’s about a three-minute walk from my concession, and across the street from the concession where Salimata and my language tutor both live (they’re in the “fonctionnaire” concession – they are government employees and not from the village). It’s pretty nice looking (especially compared to other ones I’ve seen). Salimata is the matrone of the maternité, the clinic where women go for prenatal consultations, giving birth, family planning advice, etc. I sat in on a few prenatal consultations. Other than that, I didn’t really get a good idea of the CSCOM on this visit. Once I get back I will make a schedule of hours that I will regularly spend at the CSCOM.
The chief of the village gave me a live chicken as a welcome present. First it was tied up in Salimata’s compound. The next day it was beheaded and lying next to the cooking fire. Later in the day they took it away and de-feathered it, then cooked it for me for dinner. I think it was the first time I had seen a live animal, then known that that specific animal was on my dinner plate. It was delicious though.
On Sunday the Peace Corps vehicle was supposed to come pick me up, but it turned out that a PCV had had a medical emergency and they needed the car to take that person to Bamako. This was good practice for how they would get me out of my village if I had a medical emergency. My language tutor, Lassina, rode his motorcycle to the village 1 km away where there is a guy that owns a car. He arranged for the car to take me to Sikasso if we reimbursed them for gas. And that was that.
Much to the villagers’ consternation, one of Peace Corps’s rules is that volunteers are forbidden to drive or ride on motorcycles/mopeds/scooters. This is a recent rule – PC even used to provide them for some volunteers. Then they did a study and found that they were causing an inordinate number of the injuries and even deaths among PCVs. Volunteers in some countries are allowed to ride on them with a helmet, because in those countries it’s basically the only way to get around, but not in Mali. Anyway, tons of people in my village have motos so it’s kind of inconvenient that I can’t, but I would be afraid to anyway. The roads are so bad here and everyone rides without helmets.
When I got back to Sikasso, several other PCTs and volunteers were there. We went to the market and made Mexican food for dinner! We made flour tortillas from scratch and guacamole, plus ground beef, beans, and other taco toppings. It was so delicious.
I took the earliest possible but back to Bamako the next morning with two other trainees. It was a luxurious trip – the bus wasn’t full, so we each had two seats, and we barely stopped. It took about 6 ½ hours, so I think that’s about the least time it could ever take.
When we got back to Bamako, we learned that one PCT, who is in the same training village as I am, broke his leg that morning in Segou. It was one of those freak things -- he was just walking down a little hill and turned his ankle and it snapped. He is being MedEvac'ed to Washington because he needs surgery, but hopefully he'll be able to return.
That’s all for now. This is an excessively long entry.
Sunday, August 19, 2007
An Ka Duminike!
I realized that I haven’t really talked very much about the ins and outs of my daily life, so I’m going to try to address that a little. First to describe my family’s compound. You enter through a gate, and there is a well to the left. My family uses well water for washing, but a boy with a donkey cart brings around robinet (tap) water every day or two that they use for drinking and cooking. Each of my host mothers has her own “domain” – a living room and bedroom. I haven’t actually been in Awa’s bedroom, so I don’t know about her, but Kadiatou also has a western-style bathroom. However, while the whole thing is set up like a bathroom in the U.S., with a toilet, sink and showerhead, there is no running water. Off the courtyard are also entrances to two bedrooms, one for me and one for my teenage host brothers.
There is also the “kitchen,” which is really a room where pots and pans and other utensils are stored. The cooking all takes place in the courtyard itself over either wood or charcoal fires. There is another storeroom on the other side of the courtyard where my Kadiatou keeps her supplies for the stuff she sells in the market.
In the courtyard there is also a double nyegen. A nyegen, again, is basically a hole in the ground. Luckily my family’s has a cement floor, which is much pleasanter than the ones with just a dirt floor. I use the nyegen about half the time, but I almost always take my bucket baths in Kadiatou’s bathroom, because they prefer that I do.
Cooking is really different here. Like I said, my family only uses charcoal or wood fires. There are no counters or tables. They prepare everything in the courtyard, usually sitting on a chair and cutting things up in their hands. We have a small mortar and pestle that they use to grind certain ingredients. In our back alley there is a large mortar and pestle used to pound millet or corn.
Which brings me to the food. My homestay family feeds me very well. There is not nearly as much variety in the food here. There are several staple starches that are eaten with a variety of sauces. There is, of course, rice. That can pretty much go with any sauce (tigadegenan, or peanut sauce, tomato based sauce, green leafy sauce, or prepared like fried rice, which is my favorite).
Then there is to. To is made from millet (it can also be made from corn), it’s basically ground and cooked into a paste, and eaten with okra sauce and a red sauce. My family has only given me to once. If you know what okra is like, you can imagine that okra cooked into a sauce ends up having the consistency of snot. Lots of Americans don’t like to, but I felt that maybe with a different sauce I would have found it tolerable.
Couscous, or bashi, is my nemesis. It is not like couscous in the U.S., which I think is Arab couscous. It is a much finer texture, and I always feel like I’m eating sand. My family really likes couscous though so we have it a lot. It is usually accompanied by a green leafy sauce but we had it with something else the other day. I just try to take a lot of sauce and a little couscous, and I can deal with it.
There is another starch that we only had one time, called nyenyesiri or something like that. It is made from ground corn, and it is kind of the texture of mashed rice. We had that with peanut sauce and I thought it was pretty good, but we haven’t had it again.
We eat from a communal bowl. The bowl sits on the floor and we all sit on low chairs around it, and eat with our hands. Before eating, everyone washes their right hand in a bowl of water. You never, ever, ever use your left hand to eat (there is a good reason). Women and men don’t eat from the same bowl. In my family, when there are no other men around, the teenage boys will occasionally eat with us, but not usually. Kadiatou (the first wife) is the one that spoons the sauce on to the rice, and gets puts more food out if she notices that everyone still seems hungry. Kadiatou and Awa alternate cooking days, but this is always Kadiatou’s role.
At dinner, I don’t eat from the communal bowl because they make me separate food for dinner. The Peace Corps gave the families some orientation before we went to live there, and told them that Americans like more variety in their food. My family almost always eats the same thing they had for lunch for dinner, so they make me something separate, which is usually either meat and potatoes or yams in sauce, or pasta and meat. I really like this because I get tired of rice and I almost always like the food they give me for dinner.
There are also two sweetened porridges that they make, siri and moni. Siri is made with rice, and in my family we usually eat it as dessert in the evening, but some people eat it for breakfast. I LOVE siri. Before leaving homestay this last time I was able to ask Kadiatou, in Bambara, if when I returned she could teach me to make it. Moni is made from millet and I can’t stand it. I know that I can like millet porridges prepared a certain way, but moni does not do it for me. My family usually eats this for breakfast.
For breakfast they give me bread and tea.
This was a lot about food, but it's actually proportional to how important a topic food is in the lives of PCTs. We talk about it constantly: what we eat at each meal, how we liked it, what we crave, and what we miss.
Monday, August 13, 2007
some pics!
I originally tried to post this several days ago, but the power went out. So enjoy!
Tuesday, August 7, 2007
back at Tubani So
We basically spend all day learning Bambara (Bamanankan), with a two hour break for lunch. Sometimes there is a cross-cultural session thrown in as well. There are 11 PCTs in my village, but only 4 of us are doing Bambara (the others are doing French). Our village is actually more of a town. It's pretty big and pretty near Bamako. I haven't gone into Bamako yet though. It's nice to be in a larger town because there is a market every day, so we can buy fruit, cloth, cookies, whatever.
At my house we have luxuries like a refrigerator, which my mother uses to chill or freeze juices that she sells at the market every day. I know they are safe to drink because I know my family only uses robinet water, which is already treated, so it's nice to have access to that. I also have electricity in my room, and even a fan. My family is really respectful of my room and my belongings.
Our language classes are held at the concession (walled in compound) of a fisherman who lives by the Niger river. We have classes under some mango trees (no mangoes on them right now).
Can't write more now, but we should be finding out about our sites either tomorrow or Thursday!
Sunday, July 22, 2007
N be Mali la
We are here at the training center till Wednesday, when we will be "installed" in homestay villages where we spend most of training. I had been confused about the mechanics of this, but it turns out that recently they switched to a "community based training model," which means that we spend about two weeks at a time in rural villages, some right near Bamako, some up to 120 km away. There will be 5-7 of us per village, and an LCF (Language and Culture Facilitator) will be living in our village training us in the indigenous language we're supposed to be learning. Every two weeks or so we come to the training center for 2-3 days.
I don't know yet what language I'll be learning. I'm exicted for tomorrow, because we have a French placement test and our first interview with the APCD (I think that's Associate Peace Corps Director), which will have to do with site placement, and thus also which language we need to learn.
Today we had our first Bambara classes, which were really fun. No matter what language we end up learning, we need to know a little Bambara because it's the lingua franca in Mali (in addition to French). I may be learning a minority language (i.e. not Bambara, and the ones being taught this training are Dogon, Fulani/Fulfulde/Pulaar, Tamasheq, and Sonrhai), because they'll only teach you one if you already speak French (because if you only speak a minority language you can't get around most of Mali).
The weather had been pleasantly surprising. It's the rainy season, so I was expecting it to be unbearably hot and humid (because Senegal was when I was there at the end of the rainy season), but it's actually pretty pleasant. It's in the 80s during the day but really cools down at night, and it's less humid than Philly! I even went running this evening and it was just fine. It rained this afternoon which really cooled it down.
Tonight I had my first experience with to, a pasty millet porridge that I will probably be eating a lot. A lot of people don't like it but I didn't mind it. The food here at the training center is very good. I was dismayed to discover that it's apparently the end of mango season, but they gave us mangoes last night and for lunch today, and I just have to say, African mangoes are sooooooo much better than any mango you could ever get in the U.S.! Mmmmm. Besides the to, the food has mostly been rice and sauce dishes very similar to those in Senegal, but I'll have a better idea of authentic food once I've been with a family for a little while.
There is supposed to be wireless at the training center, but it's not worknig right now and neither is the power adapter for my computer. They have four computers available for us, so my time is probably up on this one. Everyone email me!
Wednesday, July 18, 2007
Staging
I went out for dinner with a couple people, then swimming in the rooftop pool! I guess they don't want us to start roughing it right away...
Tomorrow morning we get our vaccinations, then have more sessions in the afternoon.
Friday, June 22, 2007
So I'm going to Mali...

On July 17th, I will be leaving to spend two years in the Peace Corps in Mali. In this post, I'm going to answer a few general questions about how it all works. The Peace Corps is a 27-month commitment. That includes three (ish) months of pre-service training, which takes place in-country, then two years of service.
What is the Peace Corps?
Here's the official party line from the Peace Corps website:
In 1961, President John F. Kennedy established the Peace Corps to promote world peace and friendship.
The Peace Corps' mission has three simple goals:
1. Helping the people of interested countries in meeting their need for trained men and women.
2. Helping promote a better understanding of Americans on the part of the peoples served.
3. Helping promote a better understanding of other peoples on the part of Americans.
Peace Corps has several general categories for the volunteers based on what type of work they'll be doing, including education, health, business, and agriculture. I am a health volunteer. My official assignment is "Health Education Specialist."
All volunteers in Africa do some work related to HIV/AIDS no matter what their primary job is. As a Health Education Specialist in Mali, I will most likely be living in a rural village with no electricity or running water. Much of the focus of the health program in Mali has to do with reducing child mortality. I may be doing stuff related to pre- and post-natal consultations, nutrition, promoting HIV/STI awareness, promoting breast feeding, family planning stuff, vaccine campaigns, malaria prevention. And that's not even the whole list. This doesn't mean that I'll be doing ALL this stuff; I'll know more when I get assigned my post.
Here's how the first couple months work. On July 17th, I meet up with my staging group in Philadelphia. This will be all the trainees going to Mali, both for Health, Agroforestry, and Small Enterprise Development. We spend two days in Philadelphia getting vaccinated and filling out paperwork, then we fly out on the 19th. After a looong layover in Paris, we arrive in Bamako late in the evening on the 20th. They take us to the Peace Corps training site, called Tubani So, where we stay for an undisclosed length of time.
Next we get broken up into smaller groups and go to villages near Tubani So, where we will live with families for basically the duration of our training period. I believe our villages are selected based on what indigenous language we will need at our future sites. This part I'm slightly unclear about because they don't know for sure what our sites will be.
Anyway, Pre-Service Training focuses intensively on language learning, but there is also "technical" training as well (i.e. how to do the job I'm supposed to be doing). Four or five weeks into training, they will tell us where our posts are going to be (they will have conducted some interviews with us to try to figure out a good match). The post is where I will spend the two years of my service. After we find out, we go stay with the volunteer that is currently at our post, or regional volunteers if we will be the first volunteer in that village, then come back to finish training. My training is supposed to end Sept. 21.

Here's some fast facts about Mali, from the CIA World Factbook and the Peace Corps' Welcome Book.
Population: about 12 million
HIV prevalence: about 2% (compared to about .4% in the U.S., about .8% in Senegal)
Official Language: French
Bambara is the most common indigenous language, and is spoken by about 80% of the population.
It is a landlocked country a little less than twice the size of Texas, with three climate zones: desert, sahel, and savannah. It's one of the poorest countries in the world, and third from the bottom of the UN's Human Development Index ranking.